Passionate Entirety
 

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A passionate & fully-experienced life leads through winning, losing, & everything else

       
Here is what I was doing the day before my book,  Passionate Vegetarian,  won the James Beard Cookbook Award: moving furniture. Dust-busting. Toting vases, lamps, end tables, books, upstairs and downstairs.

This was in my mother’s house in Hastings-on-Hudson, New York. My mother is 87. She broke her hip in January of this year, then re-fractured it in February during physical therapy (our family does not do things by halves). Her care has been an ongoing part of my life this year. She is currently in a rehab center, but her deepest desire was and is, of course, to return to her own home and live as independently as possible. 

Since January I have been working on that home, coming and going between Arkansas and New York, compressing the stuff of 50 years of her life and three stories to one story, because stairs are out of the question for the foreseeable future, and a live-in caregiver will need to reside upstairs. Her old living room has become a new bedroom (the bedroom used to be on the second floor), with a mini-office and desk corner (the office used to be on the third floor). Her old dining room became a living room (we lost the dining room; the kitchen is now eat-in). The bathroom down the hall became a bathroom off the new bedroom, with hand grips for accessibility, good lighting, and a really cool bathtub which has a door so you can step into it, and Jacuzzi jets. We repainted. We replaced old windows. We moved stuff down to the basement, up to the attic, located, replaced, rearranged, cleaned, and breathed in sheet rock dust. (Left: my mother, about ten years ago, in healthier times, standing in front of her beloved home).

The day before the Beard Award was more or less the last hurrah of the three months of this intensive renovation. I was doing it with a team of seven kind and stalwart people. There was my friend Deborah Krasner, who had come down from Vermont and who was also nominated for a Beard Award, for her fabulous book The Flavors of Olive Oil (cover, right; fuller review follows this essay) as well as Fran Manushkin, a children’s book writer who is a friend of my mother’s (and who was a young editor back in the days when my mother was head of the children’s book department at Harper & Row). In addition we had Vanya, a Dominican who had been a caregiver to my brother’s girlfriend’s late mother,  and her son Mackie; plus Christian LoPriore, a dreadlocked Italian, and his friend John, two 20-something musicians who lived in Hastings, and had been lined up by Rick Whalen, who lives across the street. We were quite the crew, and we worked pretty much to the point of exhaustion. But by the end of the day, the house looked better than we did.

Here is what
I did on the morning of
the day my book won the James Beard Cookbook
Award...

Here is what I did on the morning of the day my book won the James Beard Cookbook Award: made breakfast for Deborah and me (poached egg on top of humongous pile of steamed spinach, multigrain toast). Took Deborah (and her rolling suitcase) to the station so she could catch an early train into New York, because she had two meetings before the Awards ceremony. Had a discussion with Deborah --- themes and variations of  “What if one of us wins and the other doesn’t?”. Packed my own rolling suitcase with my dress-up clothes and make-up. Walked to the station in Hastings, and took an early afternoon train into New York. My plan was, get to the hotel by 3:00, unpack, work-out at the hotel’s fitness center, bathe, have a ten minute nap, and dress for the gala (the invitations said we had to be there at “5:30 sharp.” )
Here is what I did on the afternoon of the day my book won the James Beard Cookbook Award: got to the hotel at 3:00. Discovered that although I had packed my work-out clothes, makeup, sheer hose, heels, jewelry, and the sexy little stretch velvet top with the faux-fur neckline, I had forgotten the skirt. Haul-assed over to Macy’s holding the thought “Long skirt --- on sale --- fast.” Found a skirt that fit the bill (and me). Bought it. By now 4:15. Realizing work-out, bath, and nap were out of the question, stopped at the BeneFit cosmetic counter and asked a young woman whose tag read “Miss Marabou” if she would do my make-up for the occasion. Miss Marabou, a gorgeous and voluptuous size 18, turned out to have a vegetarian roommate, and to be a burlesque performer in her non-BeneFit hours, “So,” as she said, “I know how to do stage make-up.” She did. Now a knock-out from the neck-up, haul-assed back to the hotel. 5:05. Flung on dress-up clothes. Arrived at 5:35, sharp.
Here is what I did the night I won the James Beard Cookbook Award: found it impossible to find a place to stick my name-tag with its purple ribbon that said “Nominee” where it actually stayed stuck, except on my sternum, where I finally put it. Swanned around the reception before the gala for a few minutes. Sat in seat to which I had been assigned, which meant I was not near anyone I knew (though I knew Deborah was there somewhere in the midst of the 1200 or so attendees, along with Suzanne Rafer, one of the book’s editors).  Knew I would not be winning. After all, I did not win the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP)  Award a month earlier, for which I had also been nominated.
Cheered, loudly and excitedly, when Deborah and The Flavors of Olive Oil won. Watched other categories of books be announced, described (there are 13 categories altogether), the finalist's books’ covers flashed on a giant video screen. Heard various presenters say, "And the winner is --- "as they opened envelopes, in the time-honored Oscar manner.

           
Remained convinced that I was not going to win. Not only had I not won the IACP  Award a month earlier, this time I was up against The Healthy Kitchen, by Dr. Andrew Weil and Rosie Daley (cover right; fuller review at the end of this essay). This is beautifully designed book with good solid content, a  title I considered very strong (stronger in my opinion, if the truth be told, than the one I lost to at IACP).


Heard The Turmeric Trail, a recipes-plus-memoir cookbook by my friend Raghavan Iyer, which I felt sure would win, which I felt should win, not win. (The Turmeric Trail's cover, left. Now why on earth didn't this book win? Fuller review follows this essay).
 
Heard my category (‘Vegetarian / Healthy Focus")  announced by Jacques Pepin. Saw the covers of the nominated titles flash on the video screen. And the envelope please! “And the winner is…” (in Pepin’s lovely French-accented English) “Passionate Vegetarian!”  
Run to the stage. (Later, friends in the audience would comment with amusement on my speed. After the third such comment, I started saying, “Well, I had to hold up the escutcheon of vegetarians as high energy people.”) 
Discovered why people who win Oscars frequently burble “Oh, wow, ” and other equally inarticulate things. Here is what I think I said, more or less, the night I won the James Beard Award.

“Thank you, Beard Foundation. Thank you, Suzanne Rafer and Jen Griffin, my stalwart editors. Thank you, Jim Eber and Kate Tyler, Workman’s indefatigable publicists. Thank you, illustrator Robbin Gourley. Thank you, Edite Kroll, terrific agent.

"As some of you know, this book is dedicated to my late husband. That dedication is ‘ For Ned Shank, February 19, 1956 to November 30, 2000: What a feast we had.’ And we did have a feast. Ned was so much a part of this book. So, thank you, Ned.” 
(I kissed my fingertips, raised my hand, blew the kiss upwards into the ether. Maybe somehow, some way, Ned received it. And maybe not.)  

"And lastly, thank you all, my colleagues. On this brief and unpredictable ride, in our lovely, bittersweet lives on this planet, those of us who work with food are privileged. We get to offer others nourishment and celebration, remind them of sensual pleasure, of each other, and of the fragile globe which gives us our food and of which we are part and which we all share, passionately.”
 

Then there were photographs (go to 2003 James Beard Awards and you can see mine;  the thing I am raising is the award, which was hung around my neck on a ribbon, in the manner of a prize steer at the Carroll County Fair; the reason it is in a noose-like position is that the photographer kept saying “Hold it up! Hold it up!”).  You can see I look dazed, glowy, goofy, and very happy. There was champagne, and Deborah (scroll up from my picture and you can see her, too) and I in joyful wonderment that we had both won, and both of us and every other winner making calls on their cell phones from the press room, and Suzanne, my darling editor, tearful with happiness, saying, “No one could have deserved it more.” If anyone knew what went it that book, besides Ned, it was Suzanne.  
But "deserve"?

 

...deserving,

winning, and

 

losing, those

 

enormously

 

freighted  

 

concepts...     
 

 

Before the IACP Award (the one I did not win), I spent some time thinking about deserving, winning and losing, those enormously freighted concepts. I decided that Passionate Vegetarian would be the same, regardless of whether I won or lost, and that I, therefore, would be the same too. I made up my mind that if I lost I wouldn’t be crushed and that if I won, while pleased, I wouldn’t be ecstatic.

I moreover knew, down to the cellular level, that in this life "deserving", while a nice idea, rarely proves out in the way we think it should. For myself, I have had honors and privileges and joys and blessings I know I didn't deserve, at least on any scale of measurement I have access to --- any more than deserved some experiences so tough they felt like my skin was being removed, strip by strip, with a vegetable peeler.
But throughout the week of the IACP conference, people kept telling me things like, “You’re a shoe-in,”  and "I'll be standing up cheering for you when you get that award." Gradually, the suspicion that I might, no, would, win began to creep up on me. Then,  I didn’t win, and found out that instead of feeling pleased but basically the same, as I had told myself I would, I was bitterly disappointed. Which meant I felt doubly terrible: first because I had lost, secondly because I felt I shouldn't be feeling that way: that I wasn’t living up to my own articulated self-ideals and beliefs. Fortunately, I was with a dear friend who was the perfect person to vent all this to: he is a former documentary filmmaker who was once nominated for an Academy Award but did not get it. He tipped his handsome head to one side and remarked quizzically, “Well… I think it’ll be at least sixty more years before you’re perfect.”  
Expectations: of winning or losing, of how we should feel, of what our lives, young and old, will be like, of what we "deserve"  --- they can zap a person every time. We have to “stay fluid”, as my friend, the late artist Elsie Freund, once told me: something as hard to do as it is necessary if we are to live with any hope of equanimity and happiness. 

When, despite my certainty that I was not going to win the James Beard Award, I did, it turned out I was ecstatic. The next morning, before I took the train back to Hastings, I was waiting in the lobby of the W Hotel for Edite,  my agent, with whom I would be having breakfast. I was sitting by the fireplace, having walked over in an unseasonably chilly drizzle. But I felt warm, still glowing with the satisfaction of the previous night’s win.
 

I told myself, “Crescent, you’re the same, the book is the same, how about just a little bit of wisdom here, don’t get too elated now.” And then I thought, “Hell, I’m going to enjoy this at least to the same extent and level I didn’t enjoy losing the other!”  And so Edite and I had an exceptionally good breakfast (I recommend the W’s granola and fresh fruit highly), where she asked me about, and I recapped, every moment of the previous night's adventure, in probably excruciating detail.
Here’s what else I did the day after my book won the James Beard Award. Took the train back to Hastings. Returned two lamps with a design defect to K-Mart. Drove the rented Grand Prix to Cedar Manor Rehabilitation Center in Ossining, New York, for a meeting with my mother about the qualities and attributes we should look for in the long-term caregiver for her once she gets home, and how to go about finding such a person. Her geriatric care assessment manager, Micki, and her bookkeeper and good friend Joan, and I listened, communicated information about what long-term care insurance would and wouldn’t cover, and knew, all three of us, sadly,  that we would never find the ideal person she was articulating wishfully --- first because ideal people do not exist, and secondly, because the options of an 87-year-old, nearly blind, partially disabled woman, who is not wealthy, are limited.

The day after that, I flew home to Arkansas, where, yesterday, I bought fresh local strawberries, asparagus and Swiss chard, the latter veined with red and yellow and white, pulsing with life.

That same life which it is indeed our privilege to live, sometimes awarded and rewarded and seemingly deserved, sometimes not, sometimes with hard work, sometimes with luck, sometimes with private burdens and sorrows and equally private satisfactions,  sometimes with public acclaim, and sometimes with joy, quiet or otherwise. 
The passionate life is insistent. It cannot be lived partially, only in its entirety.

                                       ---- Crescent Dragonwagon, May 13, 2003

 Three extremely "Deserving" Books
 for your Must-Have cookbook wish-list


The Flavors of Olive Oil by Deborah Krasner (won the 2003 James Beard Award in the Single Subject category, yet wasn't even nominated for IACP --- it should have been!) A superb, sensuous, and authoritative book filled with seductive and clearly written recipes, all of which work perfectly. The definitive work on understanding, comparing, using and experiencing olive oils. Several of the pastas and a remarkable cookie --- with just four ingredients --- knocked me out. Not vegetarian, but very v-friendly.

The Turmeric Trail by Raghavan Iyer (was nominated for the 2003 James Beard Award in the International category, but didn't win; and wasn't even nominated for IACP: it should have been!) Every recipe is a stepping stone to memory, tender and difficult, from a Bombay childhood. Yet the recipes also stand beautifully as themselves, and cover not just the tried-and-trues of other Indian cookbooks, but a variety of home cooking, street food, North and South Indian recipes, plus a definitive guide to pulses and legumes: info and food  you just won't find elsewhere. You'll love it for both reading and recipes. Vegetarian.

The Healthy Kitchen, by Andrew Weil, M.D., and Rosie Dailey (was nominated for the 2003 James Beard Award in the Vegetarian/Healthy focus category; it should have won --- but then Passionate Vegetarian wouldn't have! And, incomprehensibly, it wasn't even nominated for an IACP award). The doctor who made alternative and holistic medicine mainstream teams up with Oprah's former personal chef to create a beautiful and appealing cookbook. The recipes are good though not always clear in the details; it's the solid background lifestyle, nutrition, and culinary information, usually by Weil, that makes this book excellent. Unusually in a co-authored book, both writers have strong, clear voices. A Mediterranean Diet, food-is-meant-to-be-pleasurable focus: very user-friendly. Mostly vegetarian, with some fish.

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